The bathroom is almost the main room in the house, well, in or any case, one of the main ones. Each owner of housing strives to create a cozy atmosphere for a comfortable stay in it. To achieve this goal, you have to periodically make repairs and update plumbing. The most difficult task is the replacement of a cuvette. About how to install a steel bath with your own hands and will be discussed later.
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Steel bath: advantages, disadvantages and ways to eliminate them
Steel baths are very comfortable and inexpensive, they have, like everyone around their advantages and disadvantages. But the fact is that their advantages are quite significant, and the disadvantages are easily eliminated. Let us consider in more detail the main advantages:
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the enameled coating is never broken off with qualitatively made steel baths, because conscientious manufacturers apply it at high temperatures, literally “swaying” into the surface of the metal. After such a procedure, steel itself acquires special strength;
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steel baths remain snow -white and brilliant even after many years of use;
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steel is more plastic material than the rest, so in stores you can find a large selection of various forms and modifications;
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steel baths are easy to transport due to their slight weight. They weigh several times less than, for example, cast -iron;
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among steel baths, it is easier to find a non -sprocket model than among baths made from other materials.
Some disadvantages:
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inexpensive models of steel baths can be deformed at large loads. This will entail the appearance of cracks on an enameled coating. In order to avoid this, it is better to purchase more expensive models that have thick walls (from 3 mm);
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steel does not hold heat well, in connection with this, water can quickly cool. To solve this problem, you need to install a bath, cover it from the back of the foam;
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when the bath is filled with water, a strong rumble is heard. To reduce it, as well as in the previous case, mounting foam is useful.
Tools and materials that will be required for installation
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drill;
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spanner;
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cement;
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sand;
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sealant;
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insulating tape;
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mounting foam;
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waterproof paint;
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construction level;
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corrugated tube;
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equipment for draining;
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binding for a bath.
Before starting installation work, it is advisable to check the condition of the sewer system and, if necessary, establish it, otherwise, after the end of the installation, problems will arise and you will have to dismantle everything again.
You need to install a bath in such a way that it is just to connect to the water supply, attach the taps. It is necessary to attach a siphon, a funnel of overflows, pipes for the outflow of water, a tee of a tender to communications. After we proceed to the assembly of the strapping, guided by the usually attached instructions, and process the joints using the sealant.
Which siphon to choose
Siphons for baths are produced by a lot of different types. There are semi -automatic, which make it possible to drain water, without diving in it with a hand and not a rod along the bottom, but turning a special puck fixed above the water. In this case, the cork will rise by itself, and the water will begin to leave.
Such siphons are much more expensive than ordinary ones and it is worth overpaying for them only when the installed bath has very large sizes. In the average houses with small bathrooms, a conventional plastic device is quite suitable, which will serve faithfully for many years, and also require less effort with independent installation.
Some siphons have metal issues that are attached to the overflow and siphon with a bolt. It is easier to install them than plastic, and their appearance is much more beautiful. But there are and their disadvantages in the presence of metal: sometimes manufacturers, especially Chinese ones, replace stainless steel with nickelled iron, so that over time, the metal parts begin to rust. Fasteners are also very often made of material of subjected corrosion. After a couple of years, they are bought to each other so that it is almost impossible to unscrew them.
Installation of a steel bath
Installation of a steel bath must be carried out in the sequence described below:
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first of all, one should bring into the proper condition the area that will occupy the bath, i.e. make a screed, put tiles on the floor;
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next, you need to think about supports. It is advisable to install a steel bathtub on the corners of 2.5 cm. We drill holes in them in advance and make markings on the wall. We attach to it the corners with self -tapping screws and dowels. When performing work, it is necessary to ensure that the corners are in the same plane, remembering the height of the baths of the bath and about the inclination, which should be observed during installation;
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now we make a bath and put on the place intended for it on the side, putting the bottom towards the wall. The hole through which the water will exit should be located from the side of the drain pipe left in the floor;
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at the next stage, it is necessary to fix two reliable legs in the upper side at the bottom of the bathtub. You need to tighten the bolts with moderate force, because with a large pressure you can break the nut. Next, install the rest of the legs, turning the bath on the second side. Usually adjustable legs are complete with the bathroom;
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at the next stage, having checked the strength of the mount, you need to adjust its height, using the adjusting mechanism. So that the water quickly and without a residue goes into the drain hole, it is necessary to install the bath, with a light inclination in its direction;
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this is followed by the installation of a steel bathtub on the legs and eliminating the clearance between it and the wall with mounting foam, sealant or tile glue. This is necessary, firstly, so that during swimming, the moisture does not flow into the gap between the side of the bath and the wall, and secondly, so that it does not turn over if there is a load on one edge. To give a beautiful appearance, the junction of the junction, it should be painted with a water -repellent dye or overlapped with tiles. It can also be arranged with a plastic corner for a tile, gluing it on a sealant;
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now you need to combine the corrugated pipe and strapping through the gasket, putting it with a cone in the direction of the strapping, twisting the nut;
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to check if everything is correctly connected, you need to dial water into the bath and see if it will flow somewhere. If the cork is closed, and the junction of the pipe and bathtub flows, this means that you incorrectly installed the gasket. In the absence of a leak, you need to check the binding connection by lowering the water. If you are sure that you acted exactly according to the instructions, and the water still leaked, it means that the nut is not tightened enough, therefore, it needs to be tightened;
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after all errors are fixed, the floor under the drain pipe and all the connections must be removed dry and put toilet paper under the pipe. This is needed for another check. Pour the bath to half with hot water, then open the cork. If by the time it is empty, the paper will remain dry, then the installation is made correctly.
During work, it is necessary to remember the grounding. It is done as follows: the wire is attached at one end to the metal structure, and to the other to the bath. It is impossible to lose sight of that it is not allowed to be grounded for water supply or heating.
Bath mount on brick supports
Above, we examined how to install a bath, on adjustable legs. However, many experts argue that it is much more reliable to install a steel bath on bricks. In their opinion, only standing on brick supports, it will be absolutely motionless.
Stunity must be ensured, firstly, to achieve maximum comfort when using, and secondly, in order to avoid cracks in the places of attaching sides to the walls. In time, on time, the bathing can be frozen in time, water that does not dry out due to dampness. This can contribute to the appearance of fungus or mold.
To form brick supports, you will need red brick. They must have such a height that when a bath rises on them, its board is defended from the floor by 60 cm. The number of racks is chosen depending on the length of the bathroom. The distance between them should be about half a meter.
The installation process consists of the following stages:
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prepare everything you need. For a bath of standard length, two supports with a height of 2-3 rows will be enough. This will require about 20 bricks. To make a notch to the bottom, it will be necessary to put another half of the brick along the edges. The height of the rear support should exceed the height of the front by 2 cm to ensure the slope that was mentioned above, but do not forget that many modern bathtub models already have a small angle in their design;
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for the manufacture of the solution, one part of the cement is mixed with four parts of the sand, mixing water to them. After the supports are laid out, it is advisable to let them stand for about a day, so that the bricks are asleep as reliably as possible with cement;
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before installing a bath on supports, it is necessary to carry out work on arranging the drain system described above;
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the installation and fastening of a steel bath on bricks should be done very carefully. It is best to give her stability on supports with a strip sealant. It is necessary to move the bath to the wall as tightly as possible, it is better to fix it on it with tile glue, sometimes metal profiles, self -tapping screws and dowels are used;
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after installation, you should connect it to the sewage system, install the taps, close it with a decorative screen.
So that you can use an independent installation of a steel bath, a video with visual instructions is posted on this page.
