Restoration of wooden furniture do it yourself

Before talking about the ways of restoration of wooden furniture, I would like to clarify that this procedure is only suitable for quality products. In other words, if the master in the process of manufacturing things put in her soul, then save such an item is a matter of honor. Inhale the second life in a hip-chinese table from the chipboard will be only spending your time and strength. The magic of the restoration is able to turn the bit the thing in the elegant work of art, which will delight a few more generations of their owners.

"Cosmetic" defects

In Italy, there is an inhe well custom - under the New Year from the windows of houses on the street fly old things: tables, chairs, vases, cabinets, and even technique. This tradition is rooted in the Middle Ages, when people believed that it should start a new life with a completely clean sheet, getting rid of all the rhowades in the house. Modern Italians are more economical and rational, so today you can not be afraid that someone else's stool will fall on you. In the territory of the post-Soviet space, the situation is much more serious - people who accustomed to live in short supply, simply unable to get rid of their own old furniture. Responsive craftsmen cleverly repaired bold cabinets, polish the scratched tables, and things rightfully serve their owners for many years.

Restoration of old wooden furniture is not just a correction of defects, but the true transformation and return to the subject of the former gloss and luxury. Naturally, it concerns only solid-quality furniture from the valuable wood or beautiful carvings, the works of talented masters of the past or just things made on conscience.

Scratches and scratching

With small "injuries" in the form of scuffs and shallow scratches on furniture you can cope in two bills. If the subject of the interior was not used as an exhibit, and was applied to the appointment, then such defects are completely natural - lighted corners of the chest, scratches on the table top, etc.

In this case, special retouching markers and pencils are used for restoration, which simply paint defects. You can buy them in specialized construction stores or order on the Internet.

Types of retouching markers and pencils:

• retouching marker - means to eliminate small defects on wood surfaces, synthetics and laminate. The toner consists of an opaque quick-drying enamel of various shades. It is characterized by good moisture resistance, not afraid of detergents, and also does not require additional coating with varnish. Retouching markers are applied in situations when it is necessary to hide wood texture. Produced in various color variations that can be mixed with each other by overlaying color, achieving the most suitable shade;
  
• retouching pencil on an alcohol basis - designed to tint wooden surfaces. Leaves the visible texture, emphasizing its advantages and noble color. The toner is made on the basis of alcohol veil and does not contain toxic solvents capable of hard to damage the wood. Since the veil is not distinguished by resistance to external influences, toned furniture is recommended to be coated with a protective layer of varnish. The most suitable option in this case is a varnish spray;
• retouching texture pencil - allows skillfully draw the texture of the tree to the smallest details. An unusually thin rod can carefully paint any scratches and accurately reproduce wood texture even in the most hard-to-reach places. A toner based on alcohol vehicle will become an effective antiseptic for "wounded" furniture. After drying, the pencil is recommended to cover the processed place with a varnish spray or graze wax.

Deep scratches and chips

Furniture wax effectively helps cope with deep scratches and small chips. There are many varieties of wax, ranging from soft transparent means, ending with solid colored samples. To apply wax to the surface, it is necessary to preheat it. Then smooth movements to grasp the remedy in the scratch or chip.

If you use transparent wax for restoration of furniture from wood, then the damaged area must be painted with enamel or tinting varnish. If you have a valuable old furniture or simply wooden things that you value will be worthwhile to stock transparent wax jar. It is not so expensive, but working with him quickly and pleasantly. In addition, it is better to always immediately eliminate the defect than to wait until they accumulate a whole "bouquet" to spend not one day to spend on the restoration.

If there are deep chips or dents on the furniture, then the usual wax can not do here - you will have to buy a putty on the tree. You can buy it almost in any building store by selecting the right version of the cost and color. Apply putty should be very neat in a few thin layers. Apply each subsequent layer only after complete drying of the previous one. When the chip or dent is lifted with the surface, and the defect will be eliminated, process this place in shallow sandpaper, wipe the rag and cover the layer of varnish.

Spots

Very often on old polished furniture, ugly stains are found. This is especially true for kitchen furniture or coffee tables - traces from accidentally spilled coffee or wine, stain from oil, etc. Most often it is difficult to figure out the origin of the stain, especially if you bought rare furniture from the old woman. In this case, gasoline will help you.

No, we will not burn evaporated furniture, but try to clean it. Gasoline is an excellent solvent for stains of unknown origin.

Cleaning steps:

1. Moisten a rag with a rag and wipe the stain.
2. If after drying it will still remain, repeat the operation and wipe the stain at certain intervals until it disappears.
3. Wipe the polished surface to the brilliance by the cloth.
4. Restore the disturbed polishing, rubbed furniture with a mixture of flaxseed oil and denatured alcohol.

With stains from hot objects (kettles, irons, pots, etc.) will help to cope with ordinary alcohol or vodka.

Cleaning steps:

1. Mo in alcohol tampon or rags and wipe the damaged place. If necessary, repeat the procedure several times, waiting until the alcohol is dry.
2. Restore the polishing surface with a mixture of linseed oil and denatured alcohol.
3. With strong "burns" it is necessary to make a mixture of olifa and alcohol. Wipe the damaged area with the resulting composition until the stain disappears. Then wipe the place with clean alcohol and polish the cloth.

Full Restoration of Furniture Furniture

If the varnish and putty are not enough to restore the former beauty, you need to start a complete restoration of wooden furniture with your own hands. In this case, the effect will be simply amazing, and the inener wreck will become a real object of pride of its owner.

Removal of old paint coating

To get rid of the former coating, be it lacquer or paint, you need to purchase a special wash. As a rule, emulsion washings are used for repair and restoration of furniture from oak, cedar and other valuable breeds. They are distinguished by weak toxicity and are not able to harm the tree. In addition, the risk of burning such compositions is close to zero, which is especially important if you are working in your apartment.

Waste Tips:

1. Washing "Conclusion" The old coating is just enough to apply the composition to the surface with a fluephone and wait the desired time (indicated on the package). Usually, to eliminate the polyester varnish coating, it is necessary to wait one and a half or two hours, and in the case of nitrocellulose or alcohol varnish, you can start cleaning after 20-30 minutes after putting off.
2. Before covering the polyester coating, it is recommended to scratch it so that the composition penetrates deep and evenly. Conventional nail or seer Scratch the grid with cells with a side of 15-20 mm.
3. The cleaning consumption ranges from 300 to 500 grams per square meter of the surface. After applying, cover the furniture by paraffinated paper.
4. After the specified time expires, remove the remains of the old paint coating with a conventional spatula and rinse the surface with the solvent.

It remains to dry the furniture for one and a half or two hours, and then stabbing sandpaper No. 5 or number 6. When you wipe the dust with a damp cloth, you can start disinfection.

Disinfection

Restoration of furniture involves not only the update of the coating, but also a competent handling of the design. So, if the thing has long dust in the attic or the balcony, if you bought it on the "flea market" into crude weather, in general, if the subject was in a place in place with temperature and humidity drops, it needs to arrange a gentle adaptation period. If you get started to get sick and vacuate such furniture, then after a while she can disappear (cracks will appear), and all your efforts will go to the pump. So that this does not happen, the thing needs a day-other to withstand at room temperature. Imagine that you were sharply in a tropical country with an unusual climate. You will need time to adapt to new living conditions. Similarly, furniture need to "come to ourselves."

"Acclimization" is the first stage of disinfection. When the furniture sucked, it can be accepted for its strengthening and combating fungi. What fungi is available can not be doubtful. If the thing has long been in the above-mentioned places with a non-permanent climate and dubious sanitation, then inside it will definitely find pests. Special antifungal drugs will help to get rid of them.

Wood disinfection funds at home:

• pentachlorophenol;
• morid;
• sodium pentachlorofenolate;
• "Woods" (from the beetle-grinder);
• sodium fluoride;
• antifungal preparation "Pentabos".

There are many other drugs, which can be used in specialized building stores.

To carry out high-quality disinfection, you need to fully disassemble the furniture.

Disinfection steps:

1. First, the "secondary" parts are removed that do not affect the structure of the frame, then accessories, decorative parts (eaves, pilasters, etc.).
2. Mounting (nails, screws, screws) are removed, remnants of glue are removed. To easily remove glue, you can pour it with a small amount of ethyl alcohol and wait a couple of minutes. Then the connection can be easily distributed and clean the glue.
3. Verified means for disinfection - Morilka. She kills malicious fungi and gives the tree a pleasant "warm" shade. Today you can find a veil on any "taste". If you work with a rare valuable wood or restoration of oak furniture, you can buy a water-based vehicle - it is the least toxic. For other cases, the alcohol veil is suitable.
4. If there are rusted metal elements on the furniture, treat them with a special cleaning solution. In this case, you can use purchased compositions or experiment (if the situation allows, and do not allow funds) with "Coca-Cola" or "Pepsi". As you know, these drinks are perfectly coping with a limescale and rust, just put a damaged thing into a gas meter for a few minutes, and then clean the paste's paste or metal brush.
   
5. Dry the disinfected wooden elements are necessary outdoors, but in no case are not under direct sunlight. Drying takes from 2 to 4 days.

Finish finish

For painting of furniture mainly use acrylic or alkyd enamel. Some prefer sprays, as they allow the paint to be paint with a thin uniform layer and enter even in hard-to-reach places. For high-quality painting, you need to do two or three "coming", inflicting each subsequent layer after complete drying of the previous one.

If it is necessary to glue the design elements, use a two-component epoxy glue. Lubricate both surfaces, look out for a couple of minutes and tightly press each other. Leave a thing for a day until the composition is completely solidified.

Finally, we recommend you to familiarize yourself with the interesting video about the restoration of the old chair:

Restoration of furniture is a unique opportunity for your actions to express the master who made this thing, thanks for his wonderful creation. This is a magic available to many, and now you!