Those who want to get elementary construction skills are easiest to start with the development of lamp masonry using the example of a stone fence in a country house or in a private house. Valuable experience and skills will be useful for the arrangement of the courtyard - the construction of decorative fences, households and partitions in landscape design.
Content
What is the peculiarity of the masonry of natural stone
Masonry is the simplest fence or wall of natural or partially processed stone. A different -caliber stone, composed of several rows or levels, is fastened with a cement mortar, special glue for facing stone or other binding construction mixture. Suitable pieces of cobblestone and large stone blocks of the desired size and shape are sometimes laid out in 2-3 rows and without fastening.
The masonry has several varieties:
- from bricks of different types;
- from stone sides;
- mixed type of masonry;
- the masonry of wild stone is Tesano and Namyan.
Looking at a bunch of irregularly shape, the beginner is not clear how the beautiful masonry of natural stone can be made from this material. However, it was from it that people built in ancient times the first fortifications, fences, houses and temples. Today it is the cheapest building material that can be assembled on the ground. Natural stone goes for construction or arrangement:
- foundation of buildings;
- fences and fences;
- basements and cellars;
- household buildings;
- auxiliary walls and partitions;
- hydraulic structures;
- underground walls;
- communications (sewage and hydraulic);
- garden buildings and fences;
- barbecue base.
With any installation method, a stone fence or another neatly laid out stone fence looks quite attractive.
To use illustrative material and explanations, it is important to master several terms used by masons:
- bed (wide base);
- spoon (sidewall);
- poke (end);
- external and inner versts;
- zabutka;
- facade;
- horizontal and vertical seams;
- spoon (chain) and pumpkin row (short side) - see the masonry pattern.
Preparing a stone for styling
The stone collected or delivered to the construction site is sorted by size and shape. It is preferable to make a stone masonry of the same mass, but usually a natural material is suitable for up to 30 kg. A stone that has a shape close to a parallelogram is postponed separately - the material on the corners. Larger blocks - on the lower rows and on the formation of dressing.
The rubble stone differs in terms of strength. By “missile” means a natural stone of arbitrary shape, chopped pieces of breed layers are also suitable. A small boot is suitable for styling, within 100 - 500 mm, or which can be transferred. A larger cobblestone is crushed for pieces up to 300 mm. For masonry is suitable:
- granite;
- sandstone;
- limestone;
- tuff;
- dolomite;
- shell -to -hener (shells of different densities, chopped and rifled).
The stones are taken with the calculation so that it can be laid in rows. The combination of the shape and size of the material is no less important for laying the stone with your own hands - they should be in harmony and create an aesthetic pattern. The formation of masonry is done according to certain principles in order to obtain a strong basis of the vertical plane, and not a chaotic pile. Proper masonry of a missile stone - with the upper faces horizontally or with a bias to the middle of the elevated wall, which is important for the correct distribution of the load.
The layers of large stones and smaller size should be alternated, and the voids are filled with smaller material so that there are no cracks in the masonry. Small stones are selected to fill the voids, the rest is filled with a “putty”. This is a composition of clay and small chopped stone, it is prepared in advance for work.
Before laying, the stone is cleaned of fine crumbs and moistened for better adhesion. When a suitable stone does not fit in the right position, small triangular pebbles are laid under it as subpoons, so they should be at hand. Each layer starts from corner stones towards, reinforcing the rod is made between rows. The last row is aligned especially carefully and poured with a binder.
The best material for masonry is cramp or stabbed, suitable form, which will give a relative even front surface. Very large building materials are split in different ways. Excessive pointings are removed to obtain a suitable geometric shape. Masonry of hollow stones is done similarly, but without additional refinement.
For a meal masonry, you will need a tool:
- hammer;
- sledgehammer;
- trowel;
- metal tamping and wooden.
Several ways to crush a stone for styling
Attention: When performing work on the stall of stone, be sure to protect your hands with working gloves, face glasses, use a household respirator, dense robe, high boots, you can wear a mask for welding. There should be no random spectators nearby. Just in case, hold the first -aid kit at hand, since the material is very strong, you will have to make efforts. Make sure that the tool does not jump away!
- But is broken by a chisel and sledgehammer. In the ground, a small recess for stone is extracted - in order to avoid a ricochet. A sharp and strong movement strike a sledgehammer in the center. If there is no result, the blows are repeated to the same point. A strong block can be turned over and repeated attempts. Sharp fragments, after splitting the stone, should be shut up with a hammer.
- But is broken with a hammer. If there is no suitable tool, an ordinary heavy hammer on a short handle is suitable. The chisel is selected with a carbular tip capable of withstanding the load. The entire action scheme is the same as described above, but the chisel can also be moved around the circle until the first crack is formed. Usually there are enough 5-10 sharp blows, but it all depends on the density of the stone.
- The large cobblestone is the most difficult to split, but the process is similar to the previous ones - the stone in the recess is split by a chisel. Blows are struck by a hammer until the first signs of a split.
- You can try to work with a power tool, but it is important to calculate the possible load and choose a reliable nozzle. After breaking with wedges in different places, a grinder with a diamond disk is used.
Tip: when using a sledgehammer, it is more important not the power of impact, but the accuracy and proper maintenance of the tool. You need to stay closer to the end of the handle, and this will give a blow more strength than holding from a heavy tan.
- The last way is to break the large cobblestone dynamite, but here we need experience, equipment and removal from the village. These works trust professionals.
"Dry" and "wet" masonry of stone
Builders practice “wet” and “dry” masonry using a solution based on:
- construction glue;
- sand-cement mixture;
- clay kneading.
It is better to lay out the test stone of the same size at 2-3 levels without any solution with a thorough fit of each block, respectively, the shape of a neighboring material.
Garden-park hedges during dry laying of the stone look very natural, especially if the earth is covered with the back for the likeness of natural terraces. The stone is gradually overgrown with overgrown and a picturesque landscape is obtained, reminiscent of the ruins of an ancient fortress or castle.
In “dry” masonry, only a large stone of an arbitrary shape, close to cubic. It is more important not only the fitting of each stone to each other, but also the calibration of building material, so that the wall forms in width and height. If the stone hedge is made under the backfill of the earth from the back, then it is important to align only the front surface - with the help of a plumb line. In the same way, you can do low masonry of ceramic stone.
The largest stones are laid to the lower level, but a row is necessarily observed, as with wet masonry. Such work is somewhat reminiscent of a puzzle combination of fragments, and dry masonry is no longer different. The voids or seams between Bout or stone blocks can be filled with tamped soil, if it is a low masonry in the form of a garden border or a fence for a flower bed. The lower row of stones is sometimes partially dug into the ground, like the foundation.
For buildings with a height of more than half a meter, only wet masonry is used, based on one of the varieties of the binder solution. If the natural stone is used for low hedges in agricultural buildings of a mixed type, for example, as the basis of saane masonry, then it can also be sealed with a clay mixture with the addition of dry cement. This guarantees masonry durability and stability.
Important: it is not recommended to knead the sea sand in a solution for laying stone. Preference is given to well -sifted river sand - it has the best characteristics for clutch and stiring, does not emit salt.
Methods of laying
The general type of masonry and the strength of the structure depends on the method of laying the long, short and ends of the construction or finishing material. The main task is to shift vertical seams in order to avoid cracks in the masonry:
- bottle;
- large -block and small -block;
- lightweight;
- decorative and others.
However, in any way, masonry should meet the basic requirements:
- stability;
- durability;
- reliability;
- monolithic;
- aesthetics;
- resistance to mechanical influences.
The simplest masonry of artificial stone and brick - blocks on each other are exposed with wide edges (beds). The brick is laid out with spoon and tech rows, depending on which side it lies on the front side of the wall. This is important for the strength of the ligation of the rows.
Traditionally, masonry from spoon rows is made by dressing - where there was a vertical seam of the previous row, where the gray hair, block or stone is above. Other types of rows are often used:
1. The English dressing, where the brick of the pumpkin alternates with spoon rows - photo.
2. The American dressing, where the pumpkin row crosses 4-7 spoon rows so that the seams are mixed.
3. Flemish dressing, where through a row there is an alternation of pale and spoon -type brick laying.
However, the natural stone usually has a unequal size and arbitrary shape, therefore, observing the types of dressing similar to brickwork is not so simple. Experienced masons skillfully combine the principles of different types of styling, choosing a bot with a poke (short side) and a long (spoon). In the zabutka (boot masonry), it is still important to observe the row and alternation of vertical seams to get a semblance of chain dressing. The corners are laid out so that the long side of the stone alternately goes into one wall or another wall.
The easiest way is to observe the row and alternation of vertical seams when laying cut stone, for example, from shells or sandstone. This is a natural material with a high content of calcium, which arose through an underwater pressing of a relict shell, it has environmental, small thermal conductivity. It is cut with blocks, like a brick, so it is convenient to lay the shells. And in a proprietary masonry, a smaller limit of strength, since stones of irregular shape are in contact with each other at several points, and not flat. Here, much depends on the quality of the clutch mortar and the skills of the layer.
The masonry is of different difficulties where they are supposed:
- curly protrusions and volumetric bulges;
- belts (several protruding horizontal rows);
- cuts (on the facade are less masonry thickness);
- allowances (fragment of masonry with a protruding from the common wall nearby);
- ledges (the front fragment of the wall goes the other way);
- strabs (masonry temporarily breaks off, vertical or “belief”);
- niches (half the thickness of the masonry or more).
Thus, a special decorative effect is achieved, and not just a continuous stone wall. Often, in stakes with a gradual decrease of a rounded shape, a forged metal grill is mounted - a very spectacular fence of the estate is obtained.
Technology of lamp masonry
Button masonry is also laid “under the bay” and “under the shoulder blade”.
1. The first row is often drank a little and laid in a dry way, compacting with gravel, then all this is poured with liquid solution, while all voids are filled. Next, the rows are fastened with a thick solution to fill the voids, maintaining the dressing. Be sure to make an intermediate horizontal seam. Each stone is dull to fit tightly to the neighboring blocks, and the vertical seam must be overlapped by the stone of the upper row. If a sufficiently large emptiness forms in the seams and rows, you can fill with stones-supports or simply filling. The supporting walls and poles are laid out only in this way, observing the row, dressing and splitting.
2. Sometimes they make masonry with vibration sequence, adding strength-lay out the 1st row without a solution, clogging with gravel of voids. Next, the solution is poured and a construction vibrator is installed to compile masonry until the entire solution enters the masonry. Next is the usual masonry "under the shoulder blade", and again everything is compacted. This is possible where dense soils do not give subsidence, and the base of the wall is laid in the trench, you can use the formwork.
3. The masonry "under the bay" is suitable for a natural stone with a torn surface without sorting, starting from the laying in the trench, like the foundation. This is done without formwork to obtain even sheer walls. Under a tightly laid stone, a split is made and poured with a liquid solution, which with excess covers the stones on top and then a new layer of stones is laid.
4. The “cyclopic” masonry looks more decorative, thanks to the chopped stone, which in the wall gives a peculiar pattern. The masonry is decorated with convex seams within 5 cm with decomposition - photo.
Tip: For any type of masonry, check its verticality with the level, especially in the corners. It is advisable to reinforce the wall between the rows. Check the horizontalness of the masonry on the lace stretched between the stakes, and if you need a semicircular masonry, it is marked with stakes according to radial markings from one point.
