A do -it -yourself bed often does not only look more interesting than purchased in a store, but also differs more durable. In addition, it organically fits into a specific interior, since all the features of the accommodation and design of the berth are taken into account in the manufacturing process. Particular attention should be paid to such a basic element of this piece of furniture as a bed frame, which can easily be able to collect even a novice furnitureman.

Materials for the manufacture of the frame

Before proceeding with the embodiment of the dream of a person’s personally collected and installed sleeping place, it makes sense to think about what material it will be made of. There are not many options, and each of them has both positive and negative sides. The basis for the bed is made from:

  • Solid wooden array. Natural wood has been a classic building material since ancient times and has not lost its relevance now. Since the cost of wood is determined by the value of the tree breed, it is clearly divided into several price categories. If the frame of the bed is wooden, made of exotic natural breeds (tick, wenge), this determines the belonging of the interior item to the elite class. The most affordable in price are beds, when creating which they used pine or birch. Examples of materials of the middle price category for the manufacture of a wooden frame are models from cherry, hazel or oak. But even if there are not enough funds for the purchase of expensive wood, a relatively cheap base is lined with veneer or tinted, masking under more presentable wood species. If you want a bed in a classic style, reminiscent of the boudoirs of the 19th century, there are practically no alternatives to a wooden array as a material for making a frame. Indeed, only in this case, the chiseled legs of the bed, an elegant headboard or overhead elements look organically. It is very simple to protect the wooden frame from the adverse environment of the environment: it is varnished, covered with bee wax or artificially aged.

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  • Metal. A stylish metal frame for the bed is ideal for high-tech and modern interiors. As decoration, it is painted, chrome and nickel. Such a finish in combination with the severity of the lines automatically turns the berth into the center of the room. To slightly soften the sharpness of metal circuits, the metal is covered with leather, textiles or applied a pressed veneer. Exclusive versions of metal beds trimmed under a patina on copper or bronze are especially popular now. To increase the life of the frame of the berth, it is covered with a special polymer layer. This makes the basis a resistant to corrosion, mechanical damage, and high temperatures. Thus, the life of the metal frame increases to 10 years or more. The main materials for metal frames are aluminum and steel. The beds made of cold steel rental are distinguished by moderate price and great weight. But aluminum models, although it is much easier, nevertheless, will cost a significant amount. Innovation in this area is considered a frame of bent metal rod, which is recommended to be painted to increase the service life.
  • DSP, MDF, FEP. Behind these abbreviations hides such material as wood slabs. They are obtained in different ways: based on wood fibers (fiberboard), chips (chipboard) or wood flour (MDF). There is an opinion that the frames made of wood plates cause damage to health, since harmful formaldehyde resins are distinguished. But the laminated coating or the veneer layer applied to the surface can avoid this. With your own hands, such a frame frame is quite simple. He gathers like a honeycomb with hollow cells, so the sleeping place is very light and mobile. The price will be significantly less than on a model of solid wood massif. DSP does not tend to dry out over time, not subject to rot, pests do not start in it. Also, a characteristic feature of the material is a high limit of strength. Even serious mechanical influences are practically not reflected in the appearance and functions of the bed with a frame from chipboard. Among its advantages is also water resistance, the uniformity of the structure without internal knots, voids and cracks, indifference to temperature changes. However, recently, the scope of the use of chipboard for the manufacture of furniture, including bars for the bed, is gradually narrowing. The reasons for this are the allocation of toxic formaldehyde resins during operation, the complexity of the assembly due to the fact that nails and screws, as well as an unpretentious appearance, are poorly kept in the material. MDF is in no way inferior to chipboard in strength and durability even when used in high humidity and temperature conditions. At the same time, such material is environmentally friendly and allows you to realize any fantasies about the design of the sleeping place. In addition, the MDF is well lend itself to lamination or veneration, so this type of woody plates easily imitates such popular shades of natural wood as red wood, beech, walnut, wenge, alder.

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Types of bars for bed

Before proceeding with the independent manufacture of the frame of the bed, it is advisable to determine its size. Usually they are standard and depend not so much on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room as on the number of people who will rest on such a bed. Classic options are:

  • Single -spaced place. Its size is 200-210 cm in length, and the width is 90-100 cm.

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  • One and a half sleep. Here the width varies between 110-150 cm, but the most common are models with a width of 120 or 140 cm. The length remains standard-190-200 cm.
  • Double place. For him, the bed frame is 160x200 cm, but if the furniture is intended for fairly full people, the width is increased to 180 or 200 cm.

Modern frames most often look as follows:

  1. Wooden lattice. It is a frame across which wooden strips are attached. Often, there are double bed frames for which a high degree of strength and reliability is especially important. The strips are attached to the frame in two ways: motionlessly connected to it using nails and screws or are installed in plastic nests specially designed for this and are mobile. “Deaf” fastenings are usually chosen for beds with elastic and thick mattresses, and moving - for sleeping places with spring and latex mattresses. Such structures provide maximum comfort due to the function of independent adjustment of the deflection zone.
  2. Metal lattice. This option remotely resembles a shell grid and has proven itself when used with spring and latex mattresses. The advantage of such models is the presence of a large number of support points - over 9000. Thus, metal frames provide good fixation of the human spinal column.
  3. Mobile frames. The price of models with variable geometry is quite high, but they are worth it. The adjustable angle of lifting the legs and head of the head guarantees a convenient and calm sleep, and for controlling the mechanism in some models there is even no need to get up.
  4. Frames on the legs. They are much less common. The frames on the legs are characterized by a large weight and base, which is a spring block or a metal net. However, more and more often they are replaced by models where the support for the grille is the frame of the frame or the internal corners.
  5. The frame of the bed with a lifting mechanism or drawers. This option will be indispensable in conditions of lack of place in a small apartment. When raising the base of the bed, access to boxes opens, where bedding, towels and other things that should not dust are added. The design of the lifting mechanism is very simple: it consists of metal guides and two steel springs. However, the owner of such a bed should know that models more often require serious and expensive repairs.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Olympus Digital Camera

How to make your own frame yourself

 

Despite the apparent complexity, special skills are not required for work. Before starting the process, we prepare the following tools and materials:

  1. The end key with a set of interchangeable heads.
  2. Desktop circular saw.
  3. Saw goats.
  4. Neuler and compressor (in the absence of them, they are replaced with ordinary nails with a hammer).
  5. A few clamps.
  6. A grinding machine or sandpaper.
  7. Rubber kiyanka.
  8. The square.
  9. Roulette.
  10. Drill-shuruvret.
  11. Pencil.
  12. Wood putty.
  13. Moril.
  14. Varnish.
  15. The carpentry glue.
  16. Screws (length 40 and 60 mm).
  17. Sponges.
  18. A small spatula.
  19. Whait-spite.
  20. 2 metal brackets.
  21. Nuts for a bolt with a diameter of 10 mm - 16 pieces.
  22. Metal fastenings in size 100x50 and 100x100 mm for connecting wooden beams - 4 pieces.
  23. Wars for a bolt with a diameter of 10 mm - 16 pieces.
  24. Turnkey screws with a diameter of 10 mm - 4 pieces.

Now we select the necessary lumber. 5                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            For the frame of the double bed you will need:

  1. A beam size 50x50 mm.
  2. 6 boards in size 50x100 mm.
  3. A bar with a size of 100x100 mm.

The length of all of the above materials should be 2.6 m. Additionally, you should stock up on a dozen or two two-meter boards with a section of 25x75 mm. For decoration in the budget version of the bed, take a pine: four boards in size 25x150 mm, two boards in size 25x250 mm, one board in size 25x100 mm - all with a length of 2.6 m - and one two -meter board in size 25 x250 mm. For the headboard, we take a wooden shield in size 60x240 cm. Now we move to the manufacturing process:

  • We determine with the height of the legs and add to it the height of the side walls. We cut off 4 pieces of the required length from a beam with a size of 100x100 mm, after which we attach the mounts strictly at the same level using screws and nails.
  • We measure the width of the mattress of the future bed and cut off from a wooden board the size of 50x100 mm two pieces of the same length, but with a small margin. We install these boards in ready -made mounts on the legs. We measure the length of the mattress and saw off two boards, the length of which will be less than this value by a size that coincides with the width of the leg. With a very wide mattress, we install the support beam in the center of the frame. To do this, we determine the distance between the 2 short sides of the frame, drink the board of the same length and mount it in the center of the rectangular base through metal mounts.
  • We set the transverse planks on the base, the cross section of which is 25x75 mm, and the distance between them is 50 mm. They are necessary to support the mattress and create additional depreciation. The planks, the length of which corresponds to the width of the frame, is fixed by screws.

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  • We turn the frame so that the legs are at the top. On one side we put a board in size 25x250 mm, mark the required length and saw off. We do the same on other parties.
  • Glue the planks to the frame with carpentry glue, previously leveled along the upper edge of the legs. Additionally, we fix them using clamps.
  • Now we begin to make the upper edge. It needs plaques 11 cm wide, which, as a rule, are sawn off a wider board. The length of the boards should be equal to the length of the sides of the base of the rectangular shape.
  • We cut the ends of each plank at an angle of 45 degrees, and install small stiffeners made of a beam with a size of 50x50 mm on the walls. We fix the ribs by means of glue and nails.
  • To hide the legs, we cut a tablet slightly less from a woods from a tree than the height of the legs. We glue them on the legs and additionally strengthen them using nails and screws.
  • Then we mount the headboard. To do this, attach boards 50x100 mm to each leg from the back. It is necessary to make sure that their height exceeds the height of the base, but at the same time they should end below the upper edge of the future headboard. We fix the boards with clamps and drill two holes passing through the boards and partially through the legs. We install the puck in the holes and screw the turnkey bolts. Now it's time to put the head in place. To make it look more impressive, glue the planks of any width to the side and upper edges.

Board frame in the interior

 

Wooden frames and bars of beds from MDF and chipboard are excellent material for the embodiment of the most extravagant interior design ideas. So, the sleeping place of a simple geometric shape without any additional coatings will remarkably create an atmosphere of minimalism in the house. Loft and hi-tech styles require the presence of ultramodern models of bent array or beds, decorated by deliberately rude and impressed from a completely unprocessed tree. 7

Such furniture in country houses or hunting estates looks very attractive. Modular beds that occupy a minimum of spaces and make up a single whole with a cabinet or racks are popular in small apartments. Metal frames usually look very elegant and elegant, especially if the bed is equipped with twisted legs or a beautiful wrought iron.

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