The main task of major repairs - to make housing more beautiful and functional. Often this is due to the change in location of the rooms. Some of them are combined, while others are broken up into smaller, but separate rooms. In carrying out this work, quite often it is necessary to change the location of doors, after the dismantling of which is a large and unsightly hole. Let's talk about how to sew up the door quickly and inexpensively.
Content
Review of materials
To sew up the doorway, the following construction materials:
- plywood,
- OSB-plates,
- brick,
- plasterboard.
Plywood is a fairly durable material that is easy to work and does not require extensive costs for additional consumables. Nevertheless, like any wooden product, plywood is strongly exposed to moisture. Since the opening in the door, even with high-quality isolation, it will still be a source of drafts, a condensate will necessarily appear on the surface of the plywood sheet, which will lead to the wetting and stratification of sheet elements. As a result, the wall will lose appearance and will be completely unusable. Alternatively, waterproofing impregnations use, but they significantly increase the cost of the structure.
OSB-stove is more reliable, but not much. The reason is all the same - excess condensate. Although the process of turning will take place much longer and will take 4-5 years, but ultimately the plate will still become not suitable for use.
The brick is deprived of these drawbacks, but its value, as well as the cost of mortar, is a significant minus. In addition, the work suggests the presence of a large amount of dirt, which is then hard enough to clean. If we are talking about the apartment, then another question becomes - what is the solution? Little dishes are uncomfortable, as it is necessary to knead the cement every 10-15 minutes, and there is a big enough to put.
Against the background of these standard methods, plasterboard looks like the most appropriate option. Firstly, working with it is extremely simple, secondly, the consumption of materials is minimized, thirdly, the design, like a brick, will eat almost forever. If we talk about condensate, then for plaster it is not terrible. The material works like a sponge filter. Paper absorbs moisture, which is immediately taken by plaster, drying with paper coating. Next, the moisture passes to the front of the sheet of plasterboard and is gradually dried. In addition, modern technologies allow you to use moisture-resistant drywall impregnated with hydrostatic additives.
We prepare everything you need
To work a certain set of tools and consumables:
- perforator / drill,
- screwdriver
- a set of screws with dowels,
- set of self-tapes for metal products,
- set of tapes for gypsum,
- level,
- rule (no less than 1.8 m),
- spacure
- putty knife,
- roulette,
- hammer,
- construction knife,
- bulgarian / metal scissors,
- mounting foam,
- 2-5 sheets of plasterboard (depending on the dimensions of the doorway),
- heattel.
A somewhat running forward (as the finished surface still has to decorate wallpaper or paint), it is necessary to immediately purchase primer and fiberglass paper if the walls are planned.
How to sew the door opening plasterboard
Before starting work, it is necessary to make a sequence of actions. Approximately it looks like this:
- dismantling doors
- cleaning the doorway from garbage, pieces of plaster, box residues,
- taking out the trash,
- sizes,
- mounting frame,
- mounting drywall,
- finishing work.
Dismantling the door takes place in the first place, firstly, it is the dirtiest work, secondly, it is associated with certain destruction, on the degree of which the course of the subsequent installation of the plug depends on the degree. Technologically simple process:
- remove the door with loops,
- remove platbands
- unscrew the screws from the box (if any),
- cut parallel to the ground on the upper and lower edges of the side planks,
- dismantle one of the side planks,
- dismantle
- remove the remaining parts.
Further, we look at the result and go to clean the doorway from the garbage. If the work is done neatly, the wall will not suffer, otherwise slices will be broken. Close up of them at this stage do not need. With a hammer, carefully disable all the extra garbage (pieces of plaster, bursting a stone, etc.). The final result is a smooth level surface (before the ideal it is not necessary to bring, the main thing is that the rule is exactly becoming a wall to the end).
It is necessary to clean the garbage, as it will interfere with work, fragments of plaster or stone can damage drywall, in addition, working in dust is harmful to health.
The next step is to remove the size. This procedure must be taken as carefully. In order for the end result to coincide with the planned, we recommend the following algorithm:
- measure the perimeter (for example, the size of the opening will be 85x185 cm),
- calculate the number and dimensions of the support profiles for the frame (to ensure maximum impact resistance, the reference planks are installed every 20 cm, respectively, the width of 85 cm is enough 5 supports, two along the edges and three in the center. Their length should be 195 cm, 185 - the main height and 5 cm on top, and below are bend for fixation screws into the floor and ceiling),
- calculate the number of bulkheads (the bulkheads are set only if something is planned to hang on the plasterboard. It is necessary to accurately remember or note their location, since the fixation of attachments should occur directly into the metal. Set one guide to which the load and On the sides of it, two fixing bulkheads at a distance of 20 cm from the central),
- calculate the required number of plasterboard sheets (the standard sheet sizes - 120x250 cm, therefore, enough two pieces, if the opening is special, then calculations are individual),
- calculate the number of insulation (for this we learn the design area from Example 86x185 \u003d 1.6 square meters. m. It is worth noting that the insulation must be put in two, or even three layers, depending on the thickness of the opening. Thus, the number of insulation we consider Formula: square of the perimeter x (wall thickness / material thickness). In the specified example, if the laying of the walls of the brick, and the material of the insulation of the Ministry of Service, the formula looks so 1.6x (10/5) \u003d 3.2 square meters. m.
The blacks work is done, now we go to the most important thing.
Mounting carcass
If the dimensions were removed according to the specified algorithm, the carcass assembly will take no more than an hour. Work begins with profile cuts. The manual grinder performs the work easily, but if the metal profile is low, then it will become brittle from the overall, so it is better to use metal scissors. The work is most conveniently performed together - one saws, the second crepit.
Once parts are cut, go directly to the installation. First of all, the support plates on the sides of the design are installed. This is done as follows:
- 5 cm in length are cut down and the edges of the profile (so that the heel is turned out),
- the plank is trying in the opening, it must come freely (otherwise cuts are made a little more),
- through the legs, screws screwed into the heels (at the beginning to the ceiling),
- if the stone is a stone, we use a dowel (for concrete anchor),
- check the level of the angle (must be perfect 90 0otherwise the design will behave),
- screw the bottom heel,
- we check the rule (there should be no "PUM"),
- checking the level.
In the strut, it is impossible to put supports, as they will rush and create an arc, which first, breaks the strength of the structure, and second, will lead to irregularities of the surface.
The remaining planks are similarly mounted. After completion, it is necessary to put the rule parallel to the earth. It should fit perfectly smoothly. The rule is set and the angle is tested relative to the wall, it must also be 90 0.
If you need to install bearing bulkheads, it is done as follows:
- the distance between the supports is measured (in each case separately),
- 6 cm is plusing to the resulting value
- in the edges are made of heels (3 cm),
- punching screws for metal profiles is screwed to support.
Even if the planned attachment will occupy not the entire parallel of the drywall, the bulkheads need to be installed between all the supports, otherwise they will not perform their function of uniform load distribution on the frame.
Next, a similar design is collected for the other side of the wall. Even more details will show how to sew a doorway, photo:
Advice: In order for the sheet to lay perfectly smoothly, it is necessary to measure its thickness, the resulting value indicates a distance that should be traded from the edge of the wall to the edge of the profile.
Installation of plasterboard
This is the most pleasant part of the procedure and takes only 20-30 minutes. As in the case of a profile, the work begins with the cutting of the material. To do this, use the rule and building knife. To cut out to be smooth, it is necessary to apply the rule from the front side, with an average force to carry out a line and then, with a slight blow to abandon the sheet. It will hang on the bearing paper, which is cut through the boat.
The technology of cutting sheet of plasterboard includes another fundamental point - they always begin with a narrower side. Thus, the first thing is gained altitude, then the width (cut off completely excessive length, then one edge is used as a base, they note with the help of a roulette the necessary width and make the second tool).
If the frame is assembled correctly, we simply put the sheet and begin to fasten it, first to one of the side supports. The distance between the screws should be about 15 cm. It is very important to drown every screw in the gypsum, otherwise it will damage the decorative material or ugly will perform in the plaster. Each support is screwed consistently.
If the work is performed alone and no one to support the sheet, then all the central screws are fixed first, then the bottom and top. It will fix the sheet and will allow you to quietly finish the work. On how to sew the doorway with plasterboard, video from the article will tell more clearly.
Several options for finishing
Stitched doorways, photos of which place various construction firms, will be very different from the result you will receive. The fact is that it is not easy enough to lay the opening, it is still necessary to conduct decorative finishing work.
First, you need to sharpen the heads of the screws in the gypsum and the places of the adjuncing sheets (if any). It is done in order to create the maximum smooth surface. Similarly, you should proceed with seams between plaster and wall.
Secondly, large slots are often found between the sheet of plaster and the wall. Naturally, they can be laid by cement or putty, but much easier, and also more economical, blend by mounting foam. Surplus are then cut off, and the foam itself is sweeping.
Thirdly, the question of the external finishing of the surface remains open. In fact, there are only two of them:
- painting,
- wallpaper.
Everything else follows from them. If the front face is white, then there are no questions. But in the case of moisture-proof cardboard, the surface will have blue or green. In addition, most putty are manifested by stains, both on the wallpaper and in paint. Solve the problem is simple enough - glassbobumaga. This is a thin white material with high adhesion. Despite the fact that it increases the consumption of paint or glue for wallpaper, its properties are very useful, since the lifetime of the wall cover is significantly prolonged (paint cracking).
In order to stick the glass, it is necessary to process the surface at the beginning of the ground, then the PVA liquid glue (for bricks only). The paper itself is glued on the wallpaper glue. Absorbing effect (and with it and the consumption of paint or glue for wallpaper) will decrease if the paper is projected.
If the question of saving is not worth it, it is advisable to stick to the glass not only on the doorway, but also throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls (materials, on average, they will last 5-10 years longer).
