Box for setting outlets - This is not only a convenient way to hide the inner elements in the wall, but also the mandatory safety equipment element of the room electrical wiring. Next, let's talk about what kind of conversion and its installation technology represents.
Content
Purpose of conversion and its types
To better figure out what the box is needed under the outlet, consider the device of the socket itself:
- The inner case is performed either from ceramics or plastic. The first option is preferable, since it does not burn, but the cost of such sockets is higher.
- Electrolytes. Metal plates that transmit current from an electrocabyl effect on an electrical appliance plug.
- Ground contour. There are in most models of sockets, used to connect the Earth. It is advisable to do if the voltage in the network is unstable.
- Plate for fixing screws. Aluminum plate with screw holes. Used to reliably fix the outlet.
- Facial panel. Closes the internal elements of the socket.
In addition to the socket itself, the cable is placed in the wall. Usually, they are removed with a small margin, in case the contacts will blown and there will be a need to replace the socket.
The result is quite a lot of elements that are not protected from atmospheric exposure. The direct contact of the condensate for contacts causes their oxidation and leads to a short circuit. On the other hand, it is impossible to completely wove the inside of the outlet in the wall, as it will immediately lead to the burnout of the entire wiring.
Advice: Sometimes instead of cutting applied alabaster. The material is weakly conducting an electric current. In the 50-80 years of the last century, the load was not significant, so the power grid did not fall. With modern energy consumption of 6-12 kW. The use of any protective contours, except for submersers is not allowed.
Solving the problem with fixing the outlet began to be approaching. It is a round or oval box, made of non-combustible plastic varieties. In addition to the core of the core, they are equipped with holes for fastening screws, which makes it easy to install and makes it more reliable. On the sides of the submerscribes are made holes for entering the cable. In the factory form of the opening is sealed with plastic to be squeezed or cut.
Types of boxes for sockets:
- under concrete
- under plasterboard.
Subscribers for concrete are suitable for installation in any monolithic walls, whether brick, foam concrete or any other massive material. They are fixed using a putty or cement.
Materials without array, such as plasterboard, plywood, OSPlit, etc., do not have enough depth for dense fixation of peaver. Therefore, the design is improved by crimp legs. With the help of screws, the paws are pressed against the surface of the sheet, as a result of which reliable fixation occurs, excluding the possibility of the penetper shift.
How to install a box under a socket in a concrete wall
To begin with, consider the installation of the opposition to the monolithic design. Installation is carried out only after the channel under the electric cable. First of all, a certain inventory will be needed:
- perforator
- chisel and hammer,
- carnations 10 mm,
- putty, construction glue or cement,
- level,
- screwdriver slot for 4 mm,
- screwdriver cross 2 mm.
Instructions for the stroke of the channels of conversion:
- draw room power outline
- think over the placement, height and number of sockets that are necessary for this room,
Advice: To reduce the load on the underwater electrocabel, several lines are carried out, which are intended for specific purposes: the first line is the connection of household appliances with constant electricity consumption, the second is the connection of household appliances with periodic use, for example, iron, vacuum cleaner, etc., the third is the connection lighting devices, including floor lamps, desktop lamps, etc. Thus, under each line, the height and the number of which depend on the specific features of the premises are needed.
- on the stroke under the cable, in the place marked on the plan, drill the hole with a perforator,
Advice: For drilling there is a special round nozzle saw, which makes the hole specifically for the opposite. If there was no such nozzle in the kit, then several separated holes are drilled with the thick drill, and then the hole is made with a chisel and hammer. For concrete and red brick, it is better to immediately buy a nozzle.
- clean the resulting hole from garbage,
- insert a cutter if necessary, expand the hole.
At this stage, preparatory work is completed. Now you need to turn off the power supply and proceed to the direct installation of conversion.
Installation of boxes for a socket includes the following items:
- if the cable was not laid in advance, then it is connected to the meter and fixed in the stroke to the place of the first break. The stock must be at least 10 cm,
- in the submersing agent squeeze or cut holes under the cable,
- the end of the cable is cleaned of isolation and individual wiring is soaked inside the opposition,
- podrotimets are fixed into the hole and laid cement, construction glue or putty. The choice of material depends on the size of the opening, if the slot is large, the glue or cement is suitable, if small - putty.
Advice: Podozhettm must be installed with a wall. If in the process of the stroke of the channel of the opposition, the hole was deeper than necessary, it must be pre-filled with cement. Void should not be either side, nor from behind from the box under the outlet.
Then the outlet or switch is connected, and after applying decorative materials, their front part is installed.
Installing boxes under the outlet in plasterboard
Since the plasterboard is processed significantly easier concrete, it will be necessary to work only:
- construction knife,
- screwdriver cross 2 mm,
- level.
If the peavering is mounted in a woodcut based plate, drill and jigsaw will be added to the tool list. Since the tree as a casing material for false walls is extremely rare, we will not describe this process in detail.
Instructions for the installation of conversion in plasterboard:
- draw a plan-scheme of an electrical circuit,
- places where the boxes must be installed on the outlet, mark on the sheet of plasterboard,
- attach to the point the box under the socket and circle its back of the pencil,
- if you plan to install multiple and bottom boundaries, to hold the upper and lower boundaries, to the resulting strip to pick up the opposite and draw the required number of holes,
- cut through the Channel construction knife, it must be as close as possible under the diameter of the submergent,
- talking the box under the socket if the side parts with crimping screws are poorly passable, specially cutting out the removal,
- remove the cable from the channel and remove insulation from it,
- conduct wires to the box for mounting outlets and insert it into the channel,
- press the crimping screws to the leaf of plasterboard,
- connect the outlet or set the switch,
- the outer part is mounted only after the end of all other construction work.
Useful advice
Although the process is not difficult, inexperienced builders allow many errors, as a result, the outlets are warm, burn out, or just fall out of the wall. Consider typical situations:
- Sparks when you turn on or off the electrical appliance into the network. Often, due to the fact that either a cable of insufficient cross section is used, or the contact is poorly connected to the outlet. In the first version, it takes either the replacement of the entire line, or reducing the load on the outlet. In the second, it is enough to reconcile the socket by circumcalling the worn contacts. Much less often the cause becomes inattention. When the mortar enters the contacts and prevents the normal current passage. This leads to microcaming and the emergence of sparks. When installing the box under the socket, it is important that the contacts are clean and exhausted.
- Heating fork, melting socket. Caused by excessive load on the cable. Eliminated by replacing the entire line. Since the cable from the counter to the first node for technical standards is set with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm, then there are no such problems on the first outlet. But further, in order to save items, a thinner cable is used, which cannot be categorically done.
- Falling the outlet or its sagging. Caused by the poor quality setting of conversion. Each power on and off the electrical appliance creates a mechanical load on the fasteners. If the cutter is not sufficiently declared or there is a free space, sooner or later he will leave his place, and the socket fails. In the case of concrete, it suffices to put the construction glue of the emptiness and re-establish the conversion. In the gypsum everything is much more complicated, since in the hole also the box will not and it will be necessary to make a new one.
- Another problem is the residual current. When the electrical appliance is turned on or off or turning off, a weak blow or cracks is heard. This indicates the presence of static tension. It is not dangerous to health, but liquidation is still subject to. The problem is solved by connecting grounding.
- The most rare problem - the walls are beaten about. By and large, this is possible only in reinforced concrete structures. As a rule, the voltage in the wall does not exceed 20-40 V and is non-hazardous for life, but if the box is installed next to the reinforcement, the voltage reaches 180 V. The cause of the occurrence is quite simple - when installing the box in it, the solution is increasing. Therefore, it is important to pay attention so that in addition to wires and the inside of the outlet or switch, there were no other elements, garbage and, moreover, the solution.
