It is impossible to imagine a full room without the entrance door. On this, sometimes the most uncomfortable design is entrusted with great responsibility. Entrance doors must perform many functions, the main of which are to ensure the safety of housing and the preservation of heat. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a wooden entrance door with your own hands.
Content
Door with swords
Imagine the simplest wooden door, which often stands at the entrance to the barn or hut. This is the door with the swords. It can be built almost anyone if the instructions will follow. Wooden entrance doors from the array do not have high aesthetic characteristics, but will be able to securely protect the room from penetration, and if they are also insulated - then from the cold. However, the main purpose of the doors with the swords is the fence for Sarai, Hlelev and barn.
The design can be made without gaps for better heat conservation or with small lumes to keep track of animals if it is in Klelev.
The main material is an array and boards, two swords and a diagonal troop, which is needed so that the door does not flock.
The most elementary option is to jerk the pitch and the knaps on the door canvas. For those who are not looking for light paths are offered to trim the knaps in the doorboards. To do this, you need to make the swords on the appropriate size.
In the past times, such doors were done with the help of a hand-saw awards, laying the plates of the panels in a row and thoroughly align them. Then they fixed, made markup and fixed the bar, fed under 45 degrees. On this bar, the grooves in half or a quarter of the boards were dirty. After that, with the help of the chisels, they removed everything too much and aligned the bottom of the groove, where the keys were drunk to the entire width of the canvas. The thicker the key, the more reliable the door. The swords are better perching on pins or glue. It will save if the wood will be dispersed.
The scope should be stored on one side at an angle to the key without gaps, then put and set an angle for the pointed side. When all the washed, attach the bed to the canvas.
Today this process is much easier and faster, due to the presence of modern technology. Duties are easily made with a circular saw, which herself can clearly set the desired degree.
Doors without gaps are well suited for the construction of a Russian bath. In addition, it is several times cheaper than buying the door in the store or order at a locksmith.
Pilented doors
Wooden panel type entrance doors are one of the most common. You can make them yourself, but for this you will need skills in handling woodworking tools. If you are not confident in your capabilities, it is better to buy or order such a design.
To begin with, it should be sorted out what a panel is. Pilenk is a smooth shield inserted into the strapping. It can be made of solid cloth or several boards. In the strapping, the groove is cut into which the profile located on the ends of the door canvase is inserted.
Materials
For the manufacture of panel doors, you must select the sawn timber for vertical parts of the door frame and the canvas itself. Since the parts themselves are long, then for them it is necessary to select high-quality solid wood.
Pilenki and short details can be made from a cheap tree.
Required blanks:
- rake 65x32 mm section;
- rake 45 mm wide.
To make rakes 65x32 mm, cut the straight billets in a 65mm battery with a thickness of 32 mm.
Treatment
When the workpieces are filled, you can proceed to the processing of the material.
Progress:
- silge the blanks from all sides to achieve a flat and smooth surface;
- distribute billets on bars for subsequent gluing;
- prepare bars for the door box. They must be with a cross section of 62x80 mm, bars for the strapping - 62x140 mm;
- spread the workpiece distributed over brucks using moisture-resistant glue for wood. Apply the glue with a roller, roll over a thin layer on both glued surfaces. Billets to form in a bar, squeeze jointed clamps to completely dry the glue (about 40-50 minutes);
- when the glue is high, acknowledge bars on the necessary dimensions and make a tracing in length by checking each item;
- get ready for milling. To do this, mark all the details, guided by the drawing of the box and the canvas. For the construction of a panel door, it is necessary to make connections in the spike. Cut holes (eyelet) to insert a spike adjacent element. Cut on vertical box elements;
- make a spike on the edges of the transverse parts of the door frame;
- if only spikes were made on the outside of vertical parts, then on the inside it is necessary to do not only spike, but also the eyes. Ship length is 40 mm. On horizontal strapping details, promotional spikes with "dotmon" 25 mm.
File manufacturer
The thickness of the glued blanks for fillets in our case is 45 mm. Sewing the blanks by reducing the thickness of up to 40 mm. In this case, the length and width of the fillets must coincide with the lumens on the already mounted doorway with the addition of 10 mm. For example, if 100x100 mm lumen, the sealer will be 110x110 mm.
In the folding blanks, make grooves for installation in the canvas. Profile the visible surface of the element to increase the aesthetics of the appearance. In completion, stick the viper by a machine or emery paper, paying special attention to transverse sections.
Build door
When you committed with milling works, you can proceed with the long-awaited assembly of the door leaf.
Progress:
- collect the door frame by glue all the spikes and fixing the design using clamps;
- at first, collect the lower part of the web, then the top, then connect them between themselves and install the external vertical strapping elements;
- squeeze the door to the clamps, trace defects, if any, and eliminate them;
- spend a pre-grinding and milling grooves for the installation of panels on the outdoor side of the door web. Pilenks for the outside should be installed by the "flood" method, for the inner - overlapping them to the strapping and fixing screws. Screws can be masked by decorative elements by creating the original design of wooden entrance doors (photo);
- the emptiness between the inner and external fillets later needs to be filled with insulation (sheet foam, mineral wool, etc.).
Door blocks
When you buy the door in the cabin or order in the workshop, in addition to the door itself you are brought to the door frame, or the door block. For the outer doors, a frame of a thick bar is made (75-150 mm). The second entrance wooden doors are usually shipped with a block made of thinner bars (up to 50 mm).
Any entrance door must have a lower bar, which will perform the role of the threshold, thereby increasing the thermal insulation of the room. Internal doors are deprived of such a melode as unnecessary. Moreover, they will constantly stumble about it, moving from one room to another. Therefore, it will be completely irrational to put the interroom door instead of the entrance and vice versa.
Choose the door frame on the inner surface in a quarter so that the door canvas losses to it as tight. So you protect your home from frost and provide good sound insulation. The slot that will remain under the web need to compensate for the possible sagging and minimum ventilation. If you wish, it can be simply covered with a beautiful rug.
How to fix the door blocks
If you install the door block in a wooden room, which is not subject to sediment, then fix the frame on the walls of the walls in the quarters with nails or self-tapping screws. If they are located in the quarters, they will be almost not noticeable and will not affect the neat appearance of the door. Heads can be triggered, sharpen or close with special decorative plugs.
Recommendations for installing blocks:
- block door blocks only with a level, fixing with wedges and horizontally, and vertically;
- vertical bars need to be launched at least three nails for greater stability;
- in the seedrooms, make a fastening along the bottom crown, and the fasteners, which will be above, taking into account the fact that they will need to be removed. When the log house completely falls, then you can change the temporary attachments to constant;
- if you install a block in a stone house, use mortgage bars, reinforcement pins or anchor bolts.
How to adjust door
Very often after installation, immediately or after a certain time, the doors begin to close it loose, creak or close too tight. In this case, you need to know how to adjust them.
Door adjustment involves lubrication of fittings, loops, suspenders or replacement of fastening elements for longer, installation of wedges in empty holes from self-tapping screws, etc. Repair of the inlet wooden door must be carried out as prevention, and not waiting for visible discomfort. It is necessary to do it no less than once a year (better in spring).
For lubricant, use thick and solid compounds. It can be a graphite rod, lubricant or solidol.
Remove or lift the door on the hinges, place the lubricant into the hole and put the door to the place. Do not regret lubricant, but also too much to put. If you moved, the lubricant will come out of the pressure loop. Then it must be immediately removed, so as not to blur the door or clothing.
If the door squinted hard and started scratching the floor, place the washers on the axis between the door loop maps or stop the loops slightly higher.
In order for the door when the door is opened, strengthen the buffer on the floor, placing it as far as possible from the loops so that it does not break them.
